NeoMix Original Products refers to three separate components in our original mix system: Admixture, Water Reducer (liquid form) and Pigment. Each component is packaged separately and requires you to add them individually to a mixer. When combined with six 60-pound bags

What is it?
All-in-one countertop mix containing pigments, fibers, water reducer, accelerants and other key ingredients		Countertop mix system requiring three separate components: - Admixture - Water reducer - Pigments
Who is it best suited for?
- First-time users - Do-it-yourselfers - Concrete   professionals		Concrete professionals who want to customize their countertop mix

of premium sacked concrete, the mixture yields a three cubic foot concrete countertop mix.

CHENG Pro-Formula is our latest innovation and engineered for convenient use. CHENG Pro-Formula is an easy-to-use formulation of admixture, water reducer, pigments and other key ingredients combined in pre-measured quantities and proportions, which yield an ideal consistency for pouring and finishing (available in 1 or 3 cu. foot concrete countertop mixes).

Generally, results from both products are the same. Most customers and DIYs purchase Pro-Formula for its simplicity and consistent results. However, some professionals and those working on pour-in- place countertop projects prefer our NeoMix Original Products for the ability to control the individual quantities of admixture, water reducer and pigment.

Pro-Formula is designed to be used with either Sakrete 5000 Plus or Equivalent (six 60-pound bags for each bag of CHENG Pro-Formula (three cubic feet yield). You can find both of these bagged concrete products at building supply and home improvement stores nationwide. DO NOT USE any air-entrained bagged mixes (including Quikrete 5000 Pro Finish). CHENG Pro-Formula comes packaged in pre-measured quantities for 1 and 3 cf yields.

We recommend these products because we think they produce a finer finish and are more structurally sound than ordinary sacked concrete mixes. Below you'll find a list of other critical materials and equipment, which can be found either in our Product Catalog or in most hardware stores or tool rental shops:

• Melamine (for mold-making)
• Rebar/wire mesh reinforcement (for mold-making)
• Large capacity cement mixer (consult rental shop for appropriate size)
• Wheelbarrow
• Professional concrete vibrator
• Variable speed polisher

Although the book is an excellent point of reference, it was written prior to the development of our concrete countertop product line. As a result, a few of the techniques, products, and instructions have varied slightly since the book's publication. That said, when confronted with differing instructions, always follow the ones printed on the product, particularly with sealers. The book is your best document for understanding the overall process of pouring a concrete countertop, but our products are your best tools for achieving a usable countertop mix as they incorporate our best and latest innovations, so be sure to follow their instructions first and foremost.

Yes. For more information about pouring a countertop in place, refer to Appendix B, "Pouring a Countertop in Place", in Concrete Countertops. For more information about adapting NeoMix Original Products for this technique, please refer to the FAQs section on Pour-in-Place Countertops.

For those of you wanting to achieve colors that are not offered in the CHENG Pro-Formula collection, we have introduced CHENG Pro-Formula Base. This pigment-free blend is specifically formulated for the artisan who wishes to create their own custom colors. By combining CHENG Pro-Formula Base with the CHENG Base Pigments, your potential color choices are endless.

We do not recommend adding pigments or colorants to the already pigmented CHENG Pro-Formula colors, since many of these custom blends are formulated to maximum pigment loads.

A bag of CHENG Pro-Formula contains many different ingredients, including our blended pigments. Once you have mixed Pro-Formula with water and bagged concrete, it will appear much darker than the final color. Only after the concrete piece is cured, sealed and waxed will it resemble the color you ordered.

Powdered pigments and liquid pigments serve the same function, but each has its own properties. At Cheng Design, we prefer powdered, blended pigments because of the rich color saturation, subtle inconsistencies and mottled appearance they produce—which we believe is more natural looking and similar to natural stone. Liquid pigment produces coloring in concrete countertops that, in our opinion, appears overly uniform, monochromatic and artificial-looking. We recommend our Base Pigments which were custom-designed by Fu-Tung Cheng.

Of course you're free to use your own pigments or create a custom blend with our CHENG Base Pigments. Remember, the amount of pigment should never exceed 10% of the total cement content of the mix. If you're using a sacked or pre-mixed concrete mix, there will be no way of knowing the precise volume of cement that the package contains, and measuring pigment will be difficult. But, if you are willing to experiment to achieve the exact color you desire, go for it! Just be prepared to put some time and energy into doing so. Also keep in mind that the color of your wet mix will be much darker and more saturated than your fully cured piece.

Mold-making is an art—and science—unto itself. Molds can be simple or complex, designed for thick or thin and horizontal or vertical applications, and made from a variety of materials. Molds for precast projects are made in the reverse and negative of the shape you wish to create. The Concrete Countertops book and the Concrete Countertops DIY Instructional DVD tell you how to make a level, watertight mold for a surface that is meant to be finished with a polisher and include detailed mold-making tips, such as creating sink knockouts and incorporating divisions into longer pieces.

At Cheng Design, we prefer thicker (from 2" to 3" thick depending on the project) rather than thinner tops, as we like the sense of mass a thicker top provides. Thicker tops also allow you to include a bailing wire and rebar support system within the piece.

The challenge of a thin countertop is ensuring the reinforcement material lies flat within such a narrow space such that it isn't so close to the countertop surface that it creates a "ghosting" effect (a slight discoloration in the surface of the concrete along the lines of the wire or rebar). When casting a thin countertop, or other thin pieces like back splashes and toe kicks (which you can think of as casting concrete "tiles"), we use wire screen for structural support. For thin pieces, make them in a moderate dimension (not too long and narrow as they can crack and break very easily), and use additional care when handling and installing them.

Yes, we have, on occasion created integral sinks, as have many other fabricators (see our Concrete Countertops book for examples). One reservation to this technique is that constant water flow from the faucet to the concrete surface of the sink will eventually erode the top "cream" layer in that spot, leaving a permanent blemish that will only get deeper over time. Another, is that in a kitchen application, the wear and tear from everyday use (washing heavy pots and pans, pouring wine or acidic juices in the sink, etc.) can significantly impact the finish and overall appearance of the sink area (which is why we favor stainless-steel sinks in kitchen applications. That said, nothing beats a cast, integral sink for looks—it's the long-term wear and tear of the sink that is affected.

Inside standard bagged concrete (like Quikrete 5000) is natural stone aggregate. When you polish the surface of your countertop, you are removing the "cream" layer to reveal these stones, which can vary throughout the country as bagged concrete is regionally produced. Some people trying to achieve the "ground" look are happy with revealing the aggregates that come with the bagged concrete. While others, trying to achieve a truly unique or custom look, will supplement natural aggregate with decorative aggregate (see Decorative Inserts in the Product Catalog) and place them into their mold. This addition is an aesthetic decision and has no impact on the structural integrity or durability of your countertop. For more information on polishing and grinding, refer to "Grinding and Polishing", pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

There is no right answer when it comes to choosing decorative aggregates (see Decorative Inserts). Because this process is completely optional and based on personal aesthetics and preference, feel free to choose the insert or combination of inserts that you desire. Whether you are striving for a subtle monochromatic look, or a standout terrazzo-like finish, you are only limited by your imagination, so have fun! To see Cheng Design's recommended color and decorative insert combinations Click Here. View Cheng-recommended Color-Aggregate Combinations »

If you are not polishing, you are leaving the creamy, aggregate-free layer alone and intact, and finishing with only light polishing. Since you are not polishing to reveal any aggregates, decorative inserts would not be revealed from beneath the surface; therefore, they are not needed with this type of finish.

Terrazzo is an age-old technique of casting bits of stone into another substance and then polishing the hardened surface away to expose the added material. You can add broken glass to the entire mix as though it were another aggregate, or simply scatter glass into the mold and then pour over it. When using the latter technique, add at least 50% more glass than you want to have showing in your finished piece, as much of it will migrate away from the bottom of the mold when pouring and vibrating the mix.

To get around this, we sometimes add a little water-soluble white glue to the glass before scattering it onto the bottom of the mold or, alternatively, use a spray adhesive on the bottom of the mold. Once the glue sets, the glass will be stuck to the bottom of the mold and won't migrate during the pour. Be mindful to use as little as possible and still get "tack."

We offer a variety of decorative aggregates—bits of semi-precious stone, moonstone, or tumbled glass—which can be cast into the countertop and then exposed by polishing the surface once it's fully cured, or hardened (see Decorative Inserts). You can polish your countertop a little or a lot, depending on how much of the aggregate you'd like to expose and the aesthetic you're trying to achieve. For more information, refer to "Grinding and Polishing," pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

In Chapter 2, "Building the Mold," of Concrete Countertops, Fu-Tung explains the simple technique of using an aluminum divide. A more sophisticated approach is to shape the metal divide into a "Z" shape that acts as a "key" between the two sections. Another option is to affix a half-dowel on the metal divide to act as the key.

There are many ways to make bullnose edges, none of which are very easy. We have made them by building up a plaster edge with a shaped edging tool (made from sheet metal), then smoothing and coating the plaster with shellac. We have also heat-formed plastic Mylar, laminate and foam edges as well. This and other advanced mold-making techniques are covered in our Advanced Concrete Countertop Design Training.

Generally not recommended. Depends on the condition of the existing countertop.

Quikrete 5000 and PakMix Super 5000 are sacked concrete mixes or "concrete composite products" that are pre-packaged mixes of the individual ingredients that make up concrete (including graded sands, aggregates, and cementitious material). Both these mixes are rated to withstand pressures of up to 5000 pounds per square inch (PSI) when fully cured, resulting in a denser, harder, and more durable surface. Not all sacked concrete mixes rated at 5000 PSI are appropriate for use with our countertop products. Never use an air-entrained bagged mix (including Quikrete 5000 Pro Finish), since the results will vary and the concrete may foam during vibration.

We don't recommend using ordinary pre-mixed concrete bags because the material is usually of uneven quality. We recommend higher quality premixed sacked concrete such as Sakrete 5000 Plus or Equivalent, especially in conjunction with our Pro-Formula products. Remember, not all sacked concrete mixes rated at 5000 PSI are appropriate for use with our countertop products. Never use an air-entrained bagged mix (including Quikrete 5000 Pro Finish), since the results will vary and the concrete may foam during vibration.

If you use white portland cement, the color of your countertop will be much lighter when fully cured than our CHENG color samples (as shown on our website). If you want to use white portland cement, we recommend you read Chapter 3, "Mix Design", in Concrete Countertops for a more detailed discussion.

The micro reinforcement fibers are designed to seamlessly disappear into and bond with your concrete mixture. If they do accidentally appear, they can be easily burned off using a light torch or flame.

Our CHENG Pro-Formula mix achieves its remarkable 85% strength in just four days because of an accelerant agent in our specially-formulated admixture. As a result, the work time with Pro-Formula may be less than that of normal concrete. From mixing to pouring to screeding, you have approximately 30 minutes of work time. Therefore, plan ahead and have your mold, mixer, water and tools all in place prior to mixing the concrete. You should have plenty of time to complete your project, but be prepared with your materials and tools and work briskly.

Like bread-making, you'll know you've achieved the right mix when it looks and feels right. Pick up a handful of the mix and pour it back and forth from hand to hand to see how it behaves—a proper mix consistency looks and feels like soft or runny oatmeal. For more information, refer to Chapter 3, "Mix Design", in Concrete Countertops.

To create a streaked or swirled finish, place concentrated patches of colored concrete onto the mold and let them stiffen a bit before adding the bulk of the mix. Carefully vibrate to keep the batches separate from one another.

A freshly poured countertop is not necessarily indicative of the final countertop color. Remember that:

1. final actual color will not be known until the countertop is fully cured, approximately 28 days later;
2. you are looking at the underside of a countertop which has not been/will not be finished so is generally lighter in color;
3. the countertop will continue to evolve and generally darken as you seal and wax it;
4. due to the nature of the bagged concrete mix, coloring concrete is an imperfect science whereupon there are never any guarantees in terms of matching an exact color. To help ensure consistent color on a project with multiple pours: a) buy all concrete at the same time, and b) pour on the same day.

When working with concrete, be open to and prepared for a product in the color range that you intended, but not necessarily exactly like the one that you ordered. The uncertainty of each pour (factors include climate and weather conditions) and the unique characteristics of each product are some of the dynamic and exciting aspects of working with concrete. Also remember that if you are polishing, bagged concrete is regionally produced so the type and color of aggregates will vary from region to region as well. Variations in color may also occur due to local conditions including water quality. If such conditions or variables are applicable to you, we suggest doing a sample pour using a 1cu. ft. container of Pro-Formula in the color of your choice.

After pouring a countertop, you can de-mold it after four days, at which point the countertop is at 85% of full strength (approximately 4250 PSI). For more information, refer to Chapter 5, "Curing, Finishing, and Troubleshooting", in Concrete Countertops.

Technically speaking, a countertop continues to cure for years after it is poured. However, after 28 days a countertop will achieve its full strength of 5000 PSI, which is when we considered it fully cured for all intents and purposes. For more information, refer to Chapter 5, "Curing, Finishing, and Troubleshooting", in Concrete Countertops.

Good mix design and proper curing are the keys to prevention. Our countertop products are designed to minimize cracking. Our NeoMix Admixture has micro-reinforcement fibers that help to contain cracking, and our NeoMix Water Reducer helps lessen the amount of water needed in your concrete mix while maintaining its workability—another way to help prevent cracks. The fibers and water reducing agents are inclusive in CHENG Pro-Formula.

Countertops tend to curl when they are too shallow in thickness and too much water is present in the mix. Secondly, curling also occurs when a countertop cures quicker than it should. To prevent this, "tent" the freshly poured concrete with painter's plastic, or drop cloths, to keep the curing environment consistently humidified. This paces the cure time and balances out the natural heat released from the concrete during the process.

Not necessarily. If you like the results straight out the mold, then you don't need to polish at all. Decide what countertop surface suits your project, your aesthetic. Generally speaking, any time spent finishing your countertop surface will create a more sophisticated piece, unless you are trying to achieve that rustic look. If you are trying to show aggregates and decorative inserts, polishing and polishing will be necessary.

You can achieve a high polish by carefully polishing with the Diamond Polishing Pads (50, 100, 200, 400, 800, and 1500 grit). First use the 50-grit pad, then the 100, 200, 400, 800, and 1500, just as marble and granite fabricators do. The 50-grit pad is the most aggressive and should be used to achieve the desired exposure of aggregate. The 100 to 1500 grits, in conjunction with our CHENG Sealer and CHENG Wax, will polish the surface out to a high sheen. For more information, refer to "Grinding and Polishing," pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

If you are a concrete professional and interested in learning how to achieve our proprietary mirror-like Geocrete™ finish, you can learn that trade secret and many other advanced techniques at our Advanced Countertop Design Training.

You can grind immediately upon de-molding, and it's easiest to do so at that point before the countertop hardens any further. Polishing, on the other hand, (800 grit and above) should wait until the piece is at least 10 days old, but no more than 28 days. Concrete that is cured less than 10 days is still too soft to polish; concrete over a month old is very hard, and polishing at this point will require a lot more effort and a lot of diamond pads! For more information on grinding and polishing, refer to "Grinding and Polishing," pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

When you de-mold a countertop—no matter how well-done the mold is—burrs and rough spots will appear on the edges and corners of your countertop. Because it would be too severe and uncontrollable to hone these spots with a polisher, a Hand-Held Diamond Polishing Pad is the best tool to hit these spots. Similarly, the edge of a sink knockout or other detailing that are curved or delicate will require a similar approach when sanding. Also for touching up and taking out deep stains, refer to "Grinding and Polishing," pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

Because of the need to polish at different speeds, the most important feature of a polisher to rent/purchase is the ability to polish at variable speeds. The polisher should be able to operate between 800-3000 RPMs. Additionally, since water is required to polish, finding a polisher with a built-in water feed is the most convenient. The presence of water during polishing also necessitates a polisher with a double-insulated motor and a ground fault interrupter as a safety precaution.

Lastly, if you are interested in using our Polishing Pads, make sure that your polisher has a 5/8" arbor (most standard polishers do) in order to fit our Polishing Pad Holder. The variable speed wet polisher used in our shop is available in the Equipment Section of our Online Store. For more information on polishing, refer to "Grinding and Polishing," pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

NOTE: Be aware of metal-angle grinders that grind at high speeds that look the same as the polishers we use. These polishers can damage the pad holder or cause excessive wear to your diamond pads.

Polishing a concrete countertop is very similar in principle to sanding wood. Starting with the lowest grit polishing pad, and working your way up through each subsequent grit, ensures that swirl/sanding marks are left to a minimum. Therefore, when exposing aggregate, we recommend the following polishing pad sequence: 50, 100, 200, 400, slurry, 400, 800, and then 1500. When not exposing aggregates, we recommend: 800, slurry, 800, and 1500. For more information on grinding and polishing, refer to the "Grinding and Polishing," pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops. For more information on slurry, refer to "Voids and other Woes", pages 152-157, in Concrete Countertops.

Each polishing pad grit requires a different polishing speed because a concrete countertop can be "over-ground," leaving excessive swirl marks if the polishing speeds are too high. Generally speaking, the lower the grit, the lower the polishing speed; the higher the grit, the higher the polishing speed.

We recommend 800 RPMs for 50 grit, 1000 RPMs for 100 grit, 1500 RPMs for 200 grit, 2000 RPMs for 400 grit, 2500 RPMs for 800 grit and 3000 RPMs for 1500 grit. For more information on grinding and polishing, refer to "Grinding and Polishing", pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops.

Voids are best filled with a slurry coat, made of pure cement with either very fine sand or no sand at all, such as our CHENG Slurry. For more information, refer to "Voids and other woes", pages 152-157, in Concrete Countertops.

If necessary, a slurry coat is applied to the countertop after de-molding. We recommend at least 4 days of curing in the mold if you are using our NeoMix system. Prior to slurrying, the countertop should be polished, at least minimally, to expose all potential voids prior to filling. If you are polishing your countertop (exposing aggregate), work your way up starting from 50 grit through 400 grit diamond pads before applying slurry.

If you are only polishing your countertop (not exposing aggregate), lightly polish your countertop with an 800 grit diamond pad before applying slurry. For more information on polishing and grinding, refer to "Grinding and Polishing", pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops. For more information on slurry, refer to "Voids and other woes", pages 152-157, in Concrete Countertops.

After applying a slurry coat, wait a minimum of 2 days (allowing the slurry a longer time to "set" is best) before re-polishing. Remember to begin re-polishing with the same grit diamond pad that was used prior to slurrying before moving on to the next higher grit pad. Note that because of the size of the holes and the viscosity of the slurry mix, multiple applications of the slurry may be required to cover all voids.

* CHENG Acrylic Slurry will "set" faster, allowing you to re-polish after only 12 hours (OVERNIGHT).

Follow the same steps as outlined until all voids are filled in as desired. For more information on grinding and polishing, refer to "Grinding and Polishing", pages 136-142, in Concrete Countertops. For more information on slurry, refer to "Voids and other woes", pages 152-157, in Concrete Countertops.

The contents of a CHENG Slurry may not look like the color of the countertop at first. Because we use powdered pigments that are all blends (i.e. blue plus yellow make green), the contents of the slurry kit may appear to be very different until water is added. When the contents of the CHENG Slurry are mixed with water, the proper color will be achieved.

Although not a Cheng Design signature, some fabricators deliberately create voids in their finished concrete, which they then fill with a slurry coat of a different color from the original piece, to create the "veined," multi-colored surface finish. To achieve this look, your mold should be hand-packed with a stiffer concrete mix and only vibrated at a moderate speed. This will produce fairly substantial voids that can then be filled and finished with one or more contrasting colored slurry coats.

Refer to "Sealing the Concrete" on pages 143-147 of Concrete Countertops. Note, however, that while the book states that we use penetrating sealers (and at the time of its printing we were), we now use a "hybrid" topical sealer that also has penetrating qualities. Our CHENG Sealer is the sealer we actually use in our shop and is the best all around sealer for use with the concrete countertops we produce and for the products we sell for others to create concrete countertops.

CHENG Sealer is a professional-grade sealer created from the latest water-based acrylic micro-emulsion technology which creates non-yellowing barrier coat to seal, protect and beautify concrete (thus, it is "topical" but is not a wet-look sealer). Particularly on porous substrates (like ground concrete), the sealer will deeply penetrate and provide years of protective service for your countertop. Our CHENG Sealer is intended to be used in conjunction with our CHENG Concrete Countertop Wax for additional protection. Always follow the directions of the actual product you are using.

Once the countertops have been unformed you should allow them to sit 48 hours before polishing. After polishing is complete you can go right ahead and start sealing using the CHENG Sealer. For more detailed instructions, follow the directions below, not those written in the book, which refer to a sealer we no longer use.

Here are the instructions for using our new CHENG Sealer:

1. In order to achieve a smooth, streak free-finish, take a sponge or clean cloth, saturate the entire concrete surface with clean water, and allow the water to penetrate for 2-3 minutes



2. In a small container, mix equal parts of clean water and sealer. This will create a 50% dilution, which we refer to as "wash".



3. Using the damp sponge or rag, saturate the countertop with the "wash", ensuring that the entire surface is covered and stays wet for 5 minutes. It is important at this stage to not allow any area of the surface to dry out.



4. Over the next 5-10 minutes, continue saturating the concrete with the wash, as you gradually add more and more sealer to the wash, which increases the ratio of sealer to water.



5. For the final wash, wring out the rag, and pour full-strength, undiluted sealer directly onto the rag. Apply it to the concrete surface and let stand for a minute or two.




6. View Sealer Application Demo >

   Wipe up the countertop surface using the same damp rag, and
   be careful to avoid heavy streaks or puddling in the process. Don't allow excess sealer to pool or puddle while drying.



7. Apply a second coat (starting from Step 2 mentioned above) 30 minutes after you have completed the first "wash." For best results wait 48 hours before waxing with the newly
   reformulated CHENG Concrete Countertop Wax.

If the sealer is grossly misapplied, applied considerably too thick, or needs to be removed in order to refinish the countertop, you may use a Sealer and Adhesive Remover (such as Jasco brand) to remove all remnants of the sealer from the countertop. In cases of slight excess build-up or swirl marks, you may want to try burnishing the sealer (before stripping the sealer completely) with the CHENG Burnishing Pads (available soon!) to see if this alleviates the problem, then reapply sealer in light coats as directed. For more information about refinishing a countertop, refer to Appendix 4, "Maintaining a Concrete Countertop", pages 190-193, in Concrete Countertops.

For best results, the CHENG Sealer should have a full 48 hour cure before waxing. CHENG Wax is best applied with a moistened wax applicator.

For a brand-new countertop, we recommend two coats of wax in total. One coat of wax should be applied prior to installation, and the other coat after installation, to remove any marks and scuffs resulting from installation. Thereafter, one coat applied once a month is recommended for continued maintenance.

Our experience with beeswax is that is less workable and does not create the durable finish of Carnauba. It is very difficult to apply an even consistent coat of beeswax, in contrast to our carnuba-based CHENG Wax, which is much easier to work with and specially formulate for countertops.

Visit our Find a Contractor listing to find a local professional near you that specifically utilizes our countertop products. You may also visit other online resources that list concrete contractors throughout the country to find an installer.

Your countertop will weigh approximately 135 pounds per cubic foot. Generally speaking, you don't need to reinforce your cabinetry or floor to support the top. However, if the supporting cabinets are single-wall or made of particle board, vertical plywood reinforcements may be necessary. For more information, refer to "Preparing the Cabinets", pages 159-162, in Concrete Countertops.

A full set of installation instructions (including handling, cabinetry support, cantilevers, installation of more than one module, dry fitting, final fitting, and sink mounting) is provided in Chapter 6, "Installing the Countertop", in Concrete Countertops.

We seal joints between our modules with clear silicone. We also recommend keying the joints to allow for a level fit between modules. For more information on casting in modules, refer to Chapter 2, "Building the Mold," in Concrete Countertops.

Washing your countertop with mild soap and water is the best method of cleaning. Be wary of cleansers and abrasive pads as they may have solvents and abrasives that can harm, scratch, or etch the surface of your countertop. Ultimately, prevention is the best defense—be sure to wipe up any potentially acidic liquids like wine, vinegar and other substances like lemon or tomato juice immediately.

Ideally, for maximum protection and beauty, we recommend that wax be reapplied every month. With each coat of wax, your countertop will develop a naturally hard, protective coating to help repel against staining as well as remove fingerprints and add a lustrous sheen. Realistically, many owners only wax their countertops once a year or less, and then some never do at all. Without upkeep and maintenance, your countertop will patina and stain but this is only cosmetic and will not affect the durability of your countertop. As long as you like the aesthetics of your countertop, the countertop itself can be virtually maintenance-free and provide many years of enjoyment.

If you are planning to wax your countertop, you can apply the CHENG Polish after applying the CHENG Wax. Ideally, we recommend that you apply the CHENG Polish once a week to ensure maximum stain protection.

If 1/16" or larger of a crack, use two parts epoxy (we recommend PC-7 epoxy) with pigment and fill the crack. Seal and then wax.

Our NeoMix Original Products can be adapted very easily for pour-in-place projects. These projects are challenging because concrete can set very quickly, making it difficult to pour a large area and trowel the entire surface before the concrete hardens. With our NeoMix Original System Products, you can increase your work time by reducing the amount of admixture that you mix in. Whereas our CHENG Pro-Formula admixture has a work time of approximately 25 minutes, reducing the powdered portion of our NeoMix Original Admixture by half will gain you up to an additional 90 minutes of work time.

You cannot however eliminate the admixture completely as it contains key ingredients necessary to strengthen your mix (you want to keep and use all the micro-reinforcement fibers that come in the admixture). If you reduce the admixture, please remember to allow for a longer curing time (2-3 additional days) prior to de-molding and grinding/polishing.

Another important note is that most pour-in-place countertops will not have decorative aggregates as most people leave the troweled finish untouched. If you are planning on polishing, you can try to sprinkle decorative aggregates (see Decorative Inserts) on the surface of the countertop during troweling for a more unique finish.

The mix is more difficult to trowel than ordinary mixes—much "stickier." Try a small area first to see if you are comfortable with its workability before committing to a large countertop project.

For more information about the pour-in-place technique, refer to Appendix B, "Pouring a Countertop in Place", in Concrete Countertops.

Cheng Design does not specialize in pour-in-place countertops because we prefer the benefits of precast, or cast-in-mold, countertops. Nevertheless, we realize that in certain applications and situations the pour-in-place technique is a viable solution for some professionals or DIYs.

We prefer pouring our countertops into a mold for better control of the surface, absolute flatness, and therefore less need for labor-intensive polishing. Hand-troweling the surface of a poured-in-place mold is an art unto itself. Troweling causes the concrete to settle differently than it would if left alone.

Specifically, troweling can bring the micro-reinforcement fibers (also known as "stealth" fibers because they are meant to lie beneath the surface) to the top of the countertop becoming visible, whereby requiring them to then be picked out or burned off. For more information on hand-troweling, refer to Appendix 3, "Pouring A Countertop In Place", in Concrete Countertops.

Screed the piece with absolute precision, and have an expert trowel the surface. Timing and feel are critical in getting a flat, smooth finish. If you're planning on lightly polishing and grinding the concrete after it has cured sufficiently (4 days or more, depending on your mix design and cure time), you'll want the flattest surface possible to avoid extra polishing work.

Ultimately, however, a troweled finish will never be as even, smooth, and glossy as a precast countertop. For more information about pouring a countertop in place, refer to Appendix B, "Pouring a Countertop in Place", in Concrete Countertops.